Biryani on a Sunday: A Family Tradition, One Dum at a Time
S ome meals feed the body.
But Sunday biryani — that feeds something else entirely.
Memory. Mood. Maybe even the soul.
Back Then: The House That Smelled Like Biryani
Growing up, Sundays had their own rhythm. The house moved slower. The sun came in through the east window just right. And always — always — there was the smell.
Biryani. Amma’s biryani.
She’d be up before any of us, tying her hair back with a dupatta, sleeves rolled, already elbow-deep in marination. The mutton would sit in its spice-laced yogurt bath while she fried the onions — slowly, until each strand turned to golden lace.
I’d try to steal one and get a swat on the wrist. “Let it crisp, kanna. No shortcuts with biryani.”
My grandfather, Thatha, would pretend to read the newspaper but kept an eye on the kitchen. When Amma stepped out, he’d sneak in, grab a few birista crumbs, and wink at me like we shared a top-secret mission.
Now: My Kitchen, My Biryani, Same Love
Years later, I still make biryani on Sundays — even though Amma lives three cities away, and Thatha’s old radio now sits on my shelf, silent but present.
Last Sunday, I decided to recreate her biryani. Not copy it — but carry it forward.
With my own touches.
My own people.
And the one bottle that has quietly become my go-to: Aram Sei’s cold-pressed groundnut oil.
Company, Chaos, and Chopping Boards
This wasn’t a solitary affair. My cousin Meera was visiting from Bangalore. She’s the experimental cook — thinks saffron is “too subtle” and once put balsamic glaze on paneer.
Then there was my brother Ravi, who doesn’t cook but insists on stirring something just so he can say he helped. He brought fresh mint and Coke. Not related — but appreciated.
My daughter Tara sat at the counter drawing suns with crayons and occasionally asking, “Is it done yet?” every 7 minutes.
We chopped, we laughed, we argued over layering technique — and through it all, the smell of biryani grew stronger.
Lamb Biryani – Amma’s Style, My Way
Made with Aram Sei Cold-Pressed Groundnut Oil
Serves: 4
For the marinade:
- Aram Sei coaMutton/Lamb (bone-in, medium pieces): 500g ld-pressed groundnut oil: 3 tbsp
- Yogurt: ½ cup
- Ginger-garlic paste: 1½ tbsp
- Red chili powder: 1½ tsp
- Turmeric powder: ½ tsp
- Coriander powder: 1½ tsp
- Cumin powder: 1 tsp
- Garam masala: 1 tsp
- Salt: to taste
- Lemon juice: 1 tbsp
For the rice:
- Basmati rice: 1½ cups (soaked for 30 minutes)
- Whole spices: 4 cardamom, 4 cloves, 1 bay leaf, 1 cinnamon stick
- Salt: to taste
Other essentials:
- Aram Sei cold-pressed groundnut oil: 5–6 tbsp
- Onions: 3 large, thinly sliced (for birista)
- Fresh mint leaves: ½ cup
- Fresh coriander leaves: ½ cup
- Saffron: a pinch soaked in 2 tbsp warm milk
- Ghee: 1 tbsp (optional, for finishing)
Method: Layered with Love
- Marinate the mutton with all the marinade ingredients. Let it rest for at least 1–2 hours (overnight is best for flavor).
- Heat Aram Sei’s groundnut oil in a heavy pan. Fry the sliced onions in batches until they’re golden brown and crisp (birista). Set aside on paper towels.
- In the same oil, add whole spices. Add the marinated mutton and brown it slowly, letting it cook in its own juices until partially done (you can also pressure cook for 2 whistles if short on time).
- Meanwhile, par-boil the soaked basmati rice in plenty of water with salt and whole spices. Cook only 70% — the grains should still have a bite. Drain and set aside.
Time to assemble the biryani:
- In a deep heavy pot, spread a layer of the mutton and its gravy.
- Add a layer of par boiled rice.
- Sprinkle fried onions, mint, coriander, a few saffron strands, and a drizzle of ghee or oil.
- Repeat the layers until all ingredients are used.
- Cover the pot tightly with a lid or dough seal, and cook on dum (very low heat) for 20–25 minutes until the rice is fully cooked and infused with the mutton’s richness.
Why the Oil Mattered
I used Aram Sei’s cold-pressed groundnut oil not just because it’s better — but because it behaves the way Amma did in the kitchen: steady, supportive, unfussy, and quietly perfect.
- It crisped the onions to textbook birista without burning.
- It held the spice bouquet without getting heavy.
- It let the mutton cook low and slow without sticking or splitting.
And most importantly — it didn’t mask the other flavors. It let them shine.
Dum Time: The Moment of Stillness
Once we sealed the pot, something changed.
The kitchen went quiet. The clatter gave way to calm. Ravi left to watch the match. Meera sipped chai. Tara napped in the corner. And I stood by the stove, counting minutes like Amma used to.
The scent grew rounder. Deeper. That unmistakable biryani perfume of saffron, cinnamon, and something else you can’t name — only feel.
When the Lid Finally Lifted…
We gathered around. Even the neighbors peeked in — “Making biryani today, ah?”
When I opened the pot, the steam billowed up like a memory. The rice was fluffy, the mutton soft, the colors vibrant. Ravi clapped. Meera nodded like a judge. Tara said, “Smells like magic.”
We ate with our hands, like we were meant to.
Aram Sei: The Quiet Hero in the Feast
Biryani isn’t just about spice.
It’s about balance, and Aram Sei brings that:
- High smoke point for deep frying (hello, perfect onions)
- Earthy aroma that enhances without dominating
- No chemicals, no preservatives, no weird aftertastes
- Pressed the traditional way — just like Amma would’ve done, if she could bottle her own oil
It’s the kind of oil that doesn’t just cook food.
It respects it.
A Table Full of People — and Something More
By 8 p.m., we were gathered around the table — rotis stacked, wine poured, a candle flickering beside the salad no one touched.
The first bite was quiet. Always a good sign.
Then came a low “mmm” from the friend who usually critiques everything.
And then, second helpings — third, even.
No one asked for the recipe. But everyone asked when I’d make it again.
One Dum, Many Stories
By the end of the meal, the biryani pot was scraped clean. We sat around, sleepy and smiling, reminiscing and refilling cups of chai.
And I realized:
I wasn’t just recreating Amma’s recipe.
I was continuing her ritual — in a new home, with new characters, and one very familiar heart.
Because biryani is never just food
It’s memory, passed through flame and time.
And when made with patience, people, and the right oil — it always tastes like home.
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Kathryn Murphy
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